How Aurum & Relics Selects Jewellery for Real Life, Gifts and Occasions

A good jewellery collection is not built by buying everything that photographs well. It is built by asking what a piece is made from, how it feels on the body, whether the proportions make sense and whether somebody will genuinely wear it. This is the practical approach behind Aurum & Relics: accessible jewellery selected for real wardrobes, gifts and occasions rather than for display alone.

For this guide, Valera Kublickis, Director of Aurum & Relics, Anželika, stylist, and Arthur Whitmore, our London jewellery styling voice, explain the questions that matter before a piece earns a place in a collection.

Question: What is the first thing you look at when selecting jewellery?

Valera: The design has to make sense at normal distance. Before discussing trends, I look at scale, fastening, setting height, finish and whether the piece has an obvious role: everyday earring, useful pendant, gift, occasion set or expressive accessory.

Anželika: I ask who would wear it and with what. A piece can be beautiful yet too difficult for the wardrobe we serve. If it needs a very specific dress, hairstyle and occasion, that limits its usefulness.

Arthur: If nobody can explain where the jewellery belongs except ‘in a photograph’, it has not finished its interview.

Question: Does affordable jewellery have to look generic?

Valera: No. Price and personality are separate questions. Accessible jewellery can have an interesting silhouette, thoughtful colour, texture or proportion without pretending to be fine jewellery.

Anželika: I prefer one memorable detail rather than decoration everywhere. A clean drop with an unusual stone shape, or a simple necklace with a strong link, often feels more considered than a piece trying to do five things at once.

Arthur: Restraint remains one of the cheaper materials.

Question: How important are measurements?

Valera: Essential. A close-up can make a 7 mm stud look monumental. We want buyers to understand total length, width, necklace length and ring profile where relevant.

Anželika: Measurements become useful when a model photograph or real-life comparison gives them context. I often compare a new pair of earrings with something I already wear comfortably.

Arthur: A ruler is not romantic, but it has prevented many disappointments.

Question: How do you judge everyday wearability?

Valera: I favour secure fastenings, balanced proportions and a design that does not constantly fight clothing. Everyday does not mean tiny; it means the piece can survive the wearer’s routine.

Anželika: I mentally test the jewellery with a shirt, knitwear, blazer, coat and scarf. If every layer creates a snagging problem, the design is probably better for occasional use.

Arthur: British weather is an unexpectedly effective design consultant.

Question: What makes a piece gift-friendly?

Valera: Easy sizing, understandable materials and a design that does not require highly specific taste. Earrings, necklaces and adjustable bracelets often reduce sizing risk.

Anželika: Presentation matters, but relevance matters more. I would rather give a modest pendant that fits her habits than a larger set she never wears.

Arthur: A gift should reveal that you noticed the person, not merely the packaging.

Question: How do you think about trends?

Valera: Trends are useful for noticing changing shapes, colours and proportions, but a collection needs pieces that remain wearable after the social feed moves on.

Anželika: I borrow the part of a trend that works with ordinary clothing. A stronger link, mixed metal or irregular pearl can feel current without requiring a costume.

Arthur: Fashion moves quickly. Necklines and Tuesday mornings are more stable.

Question: Why does honest material wording matter?

Valera: Because material language sets expectations. Silver tone is not sterling silver; gold tone is not solid gold; crystal is not automatically a precious stone. A description should say what is known and avoid implying more.

Anželika: A customer should be able to choose because the information is clear. Grand language is never a substitute for a useful specification.

Arthur: Jewellery benefits from poetry. Product facts benefit from sobriety.

Question: What should you look for in a necklace?

Valera: Chain length, pendant size, bail construction and clasp security. A fine chain can be excellent with a light pendant but less sensible with something heavy.

Anželika: I also look at where the necklace lands against a real neckline. Forty centimetres and fifty centimetres can change the entire effect.

Arthur: The pendant may be the star, but the chain is doing most of the administrative work.

Question: What should you look for in earrings?

Valera: Total dimensions, post or hook material, fastening security and weight when available. The decorative front is only half the earring.

Anželika: Think about glasses, hair and scarves. An earring that looks perfect with hair swept back may disappear or catch once real life starts.

Arthur: The ear keeps better records than the product photo.

Question: What about rings and bracelets?

Valera: For rings, I look at size, band width, setting height and whether the top is balanced. For bracelets, wrist length, extender range, clasp and how much movement the design creates.

Anželika: Hands and wrists are busy parts of the body. Practicality matters more there than on a pendant.

Arthur: Jewellery worn near a keyboard receives a very honest performance review.

Question: How do you decide whether a piece is too similar to something already in the collection?

Valera: I ask what new job it performs. Different length, different scale, different colour, different material or a different use can justify it. A nearly identical piece needs a stronger reason.

Anželika: Variety should be meaningful rather than numerical. Five silver pendants are only useful if they create genuinely different looks.

Arthur: A collection is not improved by cloning.

Question: What do you want a customer to know before checkout?

Valera: What the item is, how large it is, what it is made from or finished with, how it fastens, what is included and what the delivery and return expectations are.

Anželika: I also want the customer to picture the jewellery in her own wardrobe rather than only admiring our photograph.

Arthur: Confidence comes from fewer surprises.

A practical Aurum & Relics selection checklist

• Does the piece have a clear role: everyday, gift, occasion or statement?
• Are the dimensions easy to understand?
• Does the fastening suit the weight and design?
• Is the material or finish described precisely?
• Does the piece work with real clothing rather than only studio styling?
• Can at least part of an occasion set be worn again?
• Would the buyer still want the design without a trend label or discount badge?
• Is the care expectation reasonable for the material?

For related guidance, see our Jewellery Capsule Wardrobe, Silver Jewellery Guide, Earring Weight Guide, Gift Guide When You Do Not Know Her Ring Size and Jewellery Care Guide.

Question: How do you judge whether a necklace will actually sit well?

Valera: I look at the relationship between chain length, pendant width, pendant weight and bail size. A beautiful pendant can behave badly if the chain is too fine, the bail catches or the pendant constantly flips. That is why we compare the full construction, not just the decorative front.

Anželika: I also think about common necklines. A 45 cm chain can be very useful with open shirts and simple round necks, while a slightly longer length may work better over knitwear. There is no universal “best” length because bodies and wardrobes differ.

Arthur: The pendant has artistic ambitions. The chain has to manage operations.

Question: What makes earrings feel expensive even when they are accessible?

Anželika: Proportion. A clean setting, balanced drop, sensible stone size and neat finish often feel more refined than an overcomplicated design. The ear is a small area; precision matters.

Valera: Construction matters too. Straight posts, secure backs, smooth edges and balanced weight are practical details that support the overall impression.

Question: How do you decide whether a trend deserves space in the collection?

Valera: I ask whether the trend has a useful core. Mixed metals, irregular pearls, stronger links and sculptural earrings can all be current without becoming disposable. If the design still makes sense once the trend label is removed, that is encouraging.

Anželika: I test it with ordinary clothes. If a fashionable piece works with a white shirt, navy knit or simple dress, it has a better chance of lasting in a wardrobe.

Arthur: Fashion is welcome to visit. It need not move into the spare room.

Question: How do you think about jewellery for different ages?

Anželika: I do not begin with age. I begin with scale, wardrobe and confidence. A woman in her twenties may prefer quiet studs; a woman in her seventies may love large sculptural earrings. Personal style is better evidence than demographic shorthand.

Valera: Comfort and fastening can become more important for some wearers, so practical needs still matter. But design should not be restricted by arbitrary age rules.

Question: What role does aftercare play in selection?

Valera: A piece should have care requirements that are realistic for the customer. Plating, pearls, sterling silver and delicate stones all need different treatment. If a finish needs care, the description should make that clear rather than pretending jewellery is maintenance-free.

Anželika: Care also affects whether a piece becomes everyday jewellery. The easier it is to understand and look after, the more likely it is to stay in regular rotation.

Question: How do you think about sets versus individual pieces?

Valera: Sets make sense when each component works alone as well as together. A necklace, earrings and bracelet that can separate into three outfits offer much more value than a set that only works as a complete formal look.

Anželika: I like sets because they give a polished option quickly, but I rarely tell people they must wear every piece at once.

Arthur: A set is a family. It does not require everyone to attend every event.

Question: What does ‘British style’ mean in the selection process?

Anželika: Not flags, clichés or costume. It means jewellery that works with the way people here actually dress: layers, tailoring, knitwear, denim, coats, wedding guest outfits and everyday neutrals. A little character is welcome, but wearability comes first.

Valera: It also means practical service expectations: clear information, straightforward delivery, honest materials and sensible returns.

A real-world selection example

Imagine two necklaces at a similar price. One has a dramatic oversized pendant on a very fine chain, no useful measurements and only a studio close-up. The other has a balanced pendant, secure clasp, exact chain length, a model photo and a clear material description. The second may look less dramatic on first glance, but it gives the buyer much more confidence and is more likely to work in daily life.

Valera: That is the core of our selection philosophy: beauty matters, but useful information and practical construction matter with it.

What we reject even when the photograph looks good

• Unclear material descriptions.
• Fastenings that look inappropriate for the weight of the piece.
• Proportions that only work in extreme close-up.
• Designs that are difficult to wear with ordinary clothing.
• Pieces whose main appeal disappears once the trend label is removed.
• Sets where most components are unlikely to be worn separately.

FAQ

Does Aurum & Relics manufacture every piece?

No. The collection is curated from jewellery available through suppliers and brands; individual product descriptions should be read for the specific material and design details.

Is all Aurum & Relics jewellery sterling silver?

No. The collection includes different materials and finishes. Always read the individual product description.

Does a higher price automatically mean a better piece?

No. Material, construction, brand, finish, design and use all affect value. The best piece is the one that meets the buyer’s priorities.

What is the most important buying check?

For online shopping, combine accurate material wording with exact measurements and useful photographs. None of those should stand alone.